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Bus Brawl in Guatemala

We were in Xela, also known as Quetzaltenango, a highland town in northern Guatemala. The air was cold at 2335 meters. Finding the local bus station that really was busses packed in rows at the edge of a rather large market, we found the bus to Momostenago. Momo as it is locally known is another mountain town that is located in a remote valley in the central highlands and is known for its production of wool products. This was our destination to try and purchase a blanket and hopefully catch the end of the local fiesta that was winding down in the area.

We finally found the right bus and began watching a local ladino man selling what must have seemed like magic to the local mayans. Ladinos are the direct decedents of the spanish conquerers who now make up over half of the population. They tend to live a much wealthier life than the indigenous Mayans who endured the brute of the long civil war. The man had what looked to be the basic chemicals that any 7 year old would have in their chemistry set. You all know the trick where you pour one chemical into a glass of water and it turns pink and then when you pour in a second chemical it turns the water clear again. Basic you might be saying, but to the local Mayans it must have seen impressive. We watched while he peddled the wonders of his little bottles over a lage megaphone that was plugged into a large battery sitting in the dirt. He even managed to sell quite a few of the bottles while our buss was waiting to leave.

Finally we were on our way. Driving through one of the small towns on the way to the main Highway CA1 which runs south from Mexico through central america. Stuck again in traffic on a back road through this small unamed town we noticed a small crowd on the side of the street. What was going on I wondered. Out of the corner of my eye I noticed one man throwing his hand up towards out bus. Hmm strange. Less than a block later we heard a yell and one of the workers on the buss was yanked from the open door. The bus driver slammed on the brakes and he and the other worker ran off the bus into the street. The busses in Guatemala always have a driver and one to two helpers who’s job it is to go up and down the isle of the bus collecting the fare as the passengers get on and off. Well this bus had three, the driver and two teenagers one of whom had just been pulled right off the bus. We looked in amazement as the smallest and youngest of the kids immediately started fighting the older fairly drunk looking man who had grabbed him. The punches were flying and unfortunately the older man was landing many more than the kid. A huge crowd had now gathered and were following the melee on down the street. Everyone on the bus rushed forward and were gawking the spectacle with some people even hanging out of the windows for a better look.

At one point the man popped the young kid a really good right hook that sent him reeling towards the wall of a building. Finding his feet he stumbled directly back onto the bus. At this point we were looking for a quick exit route in case we needed split fast if the brawl ended up continuing onto the bus. Man those window look small but I think we can fit through it. Well I had nothing to worry about because the kid was not escaping he was just going for this huge oversized tire iron. Great this is going to get really bad really quick. Didn’t we just pass the prison back down the road? Well to our relief the boy stood there in the mans face and just shouted at him. Obviously the older man wanted nothing more of this small boy and his enormous tire iron. Now the older man wanted to reason with him. Just then a few older Mayan ladies decided to stand up for the small boy and started screaming and humiliating the man. Out of nowhere one ladies hand came flying over the the top of another lady and smacked the man square in the face and sent him sailing. I think he was smart to finally leave the scene before some old lady decided to whip him more.

The boy and the rest of the bus workers boarded back on the bus while the passengers were telling their versions about what had just happened. Too bad most of them were using a dialect of Mayan that I would never begin to understand so I never really figured out what had set it all off. The young boy had a proud look on his face that was common for many of the local men. He seemed very proud to have stood his ground and made it out in one piece. The tire iron might have helped. Later we found out that the town this all took places in was known for two strong liquors that are home grown and made in the area. Rompopo which is made of Rum, egg yolks, and spices then fermented for another couple of years and Caldo de Fruitas which is basically a high octane sangria that will knock your socks off. Both are like firewater and probably added to the brawl we had witnessed. Needless to say we brought a bottle of both home with us to sample and remember the most exciting bus journeys of our trip.

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