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Daggers in the Desert

Friday, November 4th, 2005

We had just arrived at the Nizwa Hotel in the arid interior of central Oman. We had been driving our rented Nissan Pathfinder for an entire day from the seaside city of Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. Nizwa is known for its magnificent mud fort that was the last stronghold of the powerful Imams who ruled the interior for many years during the British occupation. It is also the largest fort on the entire Arab peninsula. This strategic position was important as a major crossroads for caravans of the dessert destined with goods for the many regional empires of the area.

Besides the impressive fort I was on a mission to purchase an antique Khan-jar which is a large curved knife worn on the belt as a sign of power and tribal loyalties. In ancient times the handles were carved from Rhino or Giraffe horns from Africa which hint at some of the regional influences of this major trading hub. Settling into our hotel I discovered that there is rather large bar connected to the hotel that is popular with the locals. With alcohol being frowned upon in Oman, this is one of the few places that the local men can partake in drink without the local community frowning upon them. Here I would try and meet some of the residents and see if they could help me track down one of these magnificent daggers.